Tour of Braga, Portugal: Typography, Gardens and Hideouts

An Ode to Braga, Portugal: a city of gardens, typography, and hideouts

Listen to the audio version of this post about Braga, Portugal.

Twin Peaks theme tune on, red velvet couches, and rusty mirrors. David Lynch would have felt right at home in Braga, and so did we when we sat down for breakfast at the Café Vianna.

As we placed our cameras on the marble table, we immediately announced our presence as tourists. I guess speaking in English helped too.

Soon after we sat down, a Brazilian lady approached us. “Did you know this is the oldest café in Braga?”

Before we even replied, she went on and on about the story of the café, its famous customers and all the events we couldn’t miss in Braga.

“Come to Braga in the summer, come to Braga in the winter and please invite all your friends!” she said.

Breakfast at Café Vianna

It was our last day in Braga, and her enthusiasm was making us want to come back before we even left.

She asked for Alexis’ camera and started shooting us and the food from every possible angle (I think we got one good picture out of that).

This would have never happened in Lisbon. Okay, maybe she exaggerated a bit, but at least she noticed. She noticed that we sat down, she noticed that we were from out of town and she made an effort to speak with us and tell us her story.

Oh, and she did it all in Portuguese, so Alexis finally found a place where she could practice hers. In fact, she did perfectly well without English in Braga.

You see, in Lisbon, we do our best to welcome foreigners by speaking in their language while at the same time ignoring those who want to practice Portuguese. It’s just easier to speak English most times.

In Braga, if you speak in Portuguese, they will reply back in Portuguese, which is perfect if you actually want to learn the language.

Gardens, Typography & Hideouts in Braga, Portugal

Most people come to Braga for the churches. But we’re not most people.

We like capturing a city’s details, the tiles, the old lady sat outside her house, the balconies filled with flowers, old mailboxes, or the occasional vintage car if we’re lucky enough to spot one.

One of the things that stood out to us in Braga was its typography. The city was made for graphic designers!

From launderettes to the tourism office, the letters seem to come alive in Braga. There’s even an account on Instagram dedicated to Braga’s typography called @letrasdebraga!

Gardens in Braga

And then there are the flowers. You’ll find them all over the city.

No other place amazed us more than the Jardim de Santa Bárbara.

I thought it was going to be just another botanical garden, instead, it was laid out right in the center of Braga. No entrance fee, no gates. Just a public garden filled with multiple flower beds open for everyone to see.

The “flower show” continued in the Avenida da Liberdade, a colorful promenade surrounded by shops and striking buildings like Theatro Circo.

The avenue leads to yet another garden, the Jardim da Avenida Central.

As we were walking around it, we found Livraria Centésima Página.

Few places combine bookshops and coffee in Lisbon. I can only think of Ler Devagar in LX Factory or Bertrand, but Centésima Página had a different kind of charm. At least that’s how I felt when I first walked in.

Hiding amidst the bookshelves right at the back, there was a café with an outdoor garden. I’ve never seen anything like it. I just wanted to stay there with a cup of coffee and read.

Eating in Braga

These little hideouts seemed like a common thing in Braga. We found it in Nórdico as well. On our way to Retrokitchen, we stumbled upon this café, and it became our little spot for the weekend.

We had our first lunch here and came back the next day just to have their famous avocado and poached eggs toast (yup, such millennials).

There was something magical about walking in Braga, whether it was the flowers, the old-style ice cream vendors or the friendly people, I can’t really put my finger on it, but I liked it, and I do want to go back.

The climb to Bom Jesus do Monte

Of course, we couldn’t miss Bom Jesus, Braga’s main attraction, and probably its most photographed feature.

We ignored the hotel’s advice to get a bus and decided to walk to Bom Jesus. It took us an hour to get to the bottom of the hill, but it was worth it.

How else could we have spotted the little shrines, the abandoned soap factory, or the dog chilling on a balcony?

The Funicular of Bom Jesus

By the time we got to Bom Jesus, we had no interest in climbing 577 steps to the top. Luckily for us, there was an easier way — the Funicular of Bom Jesus.

Since 1882, the funicular of Bom Jesus has been transporting people up the hill to the Sanctuary.

It was designed by a Portuguese engineer of French descent, called Raoul Mesnier, who also happened to design most of the funiculars in Lisbon. So, thanks, Raoul.

Though no funicular in Lisbon can compare to this one, which is run by water. Yes, water.

Basically, there are two funiculars, and each of them has a water tank. The one at the top of the hill is loaded with water, which makes it go down, dragging the bottom one to the top, kind of like a balance weight.

You can buy a one-way-ticket or a round trip, which is what we did. I mean we walked for an hour already, so don’t judge us.

We picked the seats on the edge and waited for the cabin to move. Slowly, we began to rise up the hill, surrounded by a vast trail of trees and bushes. In little more than two minutes we arrived.

At the top, a bougainvillea tree immediately caught our eyes. For a second there, I thought I was back in Capri.

Of course, there was no limoncello waiting for us, just a few drops of annoying rain that forced us to retreat to the nearest souvenir shop.

As soon as it stopped, we were back out and ready to explore!

There’s much more in Bom Jesus than just the church though. There’s a lake with rowboats, a terrace café, hotels, and a small cave with water where you can trade coins for wishes. We saw everything but that famous staircase.

Back at home, Nick asked me if we had seen the steps. I said no, and it was as if I had never been to Braga.

Typography signs? Yes. Braga’s most famous feature? No. My camera showed him what I saw there: the ordinary things.

Useful Tips

How to get from Braga to Bom Jesus:

If you don’t want to walk up to Bom Jesus as we did, you can get the number 2 bus from Avenida Central, which takes about 15 minutes.

Other things worth seeing in Braga, Portugal:

Raio Palace: The façade of Raio Palace is really impressive. Everything is blue, the tiles, the balconies, and the doors, so you really can’t miss it!
Macedo & Companhia: If you like vintage things, you will love this shop. It can be a bit creepy at night, with all the dolls facing you, but it’s worth the peek!
Casa dos Biscaínhos: This museum is set in an 18th-century palace and has a lovely garden. Every time we passed by it, it was closed, so we have to go back to see it.
Monastery of São Martinho de Tibães: The Monastery was a bit far from the center, so we didn’t visit it. The area looks very similar to Quinta da Regaleira in Sintra.
Sanctuary of Our Lady of Sameiro: Also far from the center, this sanctuary doesn’t have the same appeal as Bom Jesus and its staircase, but it does look interesting enough to visit!

Where to eat in Braga, Portugal

For breakfast:

A Brasileira: I’ve never been to the Brasileira in Lisbon, it’s way too touristy. In Braga, however, you’ll find old men reading their newspapers here at breakfast time. The service is super friendly, and the coffee is delicious. I had a toast with jam and a cappuccino.
Nórdico: If the weather is nice, sit outside and order yourself some poached eggs with avocado! The first time we came here, they didn’t have it, so we got a bagel instead, but we did go back for the eggs. I also recommend the chai latte, both cold and hot!
Café Vianna: Ice cream for breakfast? Yes, you can have it at Café Vianna. That and a massive cappuccino. But the best part of the café is definitely the decoration!

For lunch and dinner:

Taberna do Félix: We ordered a starter and two mains for dinner, but it was way too much! I recommend sharing some starters or getting one main to share. Their specialty is fish. They also have a good selection of green wine 🙂
La Piola: If you’re in the mood for Italian, try La Piola. Their specialty is piadinas!
Retrokitchen: We didn’t try Retrokitchen, but I loved its retro interior. The place has good reviews, so I would definitely go there when I’m back in Braga.

For drinks:

Mal Amado: Set near Braga’s cathedral, Mal Amado is the perfect place to grab drinks. They serve cocktails, wine, and the local craft beer Letra, plus they play good tunes.
Mavy: From the outside, Mavy looks like an ordinary café, but it’s much cooler inside! Pick a table and admire the old absinthe bottle lamps while you take another sip of your green wine.

Where to stay in Braga, Portugal

Urban Hotel Estação: This is where we stayed, but it was a bit far from the center. It’s convenient if you want to stay close to the train station.
Ibis Braga: If you want to stay closer to the center, this one is a better option.

How to get from Lisbon to Braga, Portugal

By train: You can take the train from Santa Apolónia station or Oriente to Braga. The journey is around 3h30 to 4 hours, depending on which train you get. Check tickets and timetables here.
By bus: I honestly hate being on a bus for more than 4 hours, but if you don’t mind it, then you can take the bus from Sete Rios or Oriente to Braga. Check tickets and timetables here.
By car: If you have a car, follow this route, and you’ll be there in about 3h30.